THIS picturesque traditional Granada town is the Andalucian must-visit you probably didn’t know about.
Ever since I was little I have loved visiting Pampaneira, one of the first of many picturesque villages in Granada’s Alpujarra mountains.
Now 25, driving past the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada while amber leaves fall onto the road, I’m sure autumn is the perfect time to visit.
A typically rural Andalucian town, the white washed walls stand out against the rocky landscape, but Pampaneira has an enchanting detail you don’t see anywhere else- a clever irrigation system which channels the River Poqueira throughout the town.
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The sound of small streams lacing through cobbles, coupled with the distant hum of Spanish guitar makes for a tranquil stroll.
Wander down the emblematic Calle Rodadera or Calle Veronica to visit shops selling traditional goods and bars where you may have to hop over the stream to get a table.
At the end of the Calle Veronica, you can enjoy the views at the Barranco de Poqueira and if you feel pulled in by the nature, there’s plenty of hiking routes to be enjoyed nearby.
Another lovely viewpoint is the Paseo Garcia Lorca, a small passageway decorated with quotes from Lorca’s romantic verses leading to a panoramic view of the valley.
Each pillar is topped with a mini recreation of the area’s characteristic chimneys, known as ‘tinaos’.
Just like the cat lounging on a wooden beam also typical of the region, I wished I could stay there all day in the sun watching the ochre leaves fall from chestnut trees.
Once you’ve got your fill of vitamin D, head back up Calle Veronica, stopping along the way at Bodega La Moralea.
Filled with artisan goods from all over the Alpujarras, the shop-bar provoked both the easiest and hardest decisions of the day.
Firstly, I knew I had to come back to Pampaneira in Autumn and secondly, which products do I choose?
In the end I picked up a locally made craft beer seasoned with honey and a bottle of olive oil, though I’m sure my carnivorous dad would go crazy over the menagerie of meats, cheeses and wines on offer.
Enjoy a beer by the stream or continue up to the bustling Plaza de la Libertad to find many restaurants, shops and bars, each with a unique offering.
As you enter the square, check out the Casa del Arte, a delightful jewellery shop where each piece is designed and made by hand.
But most visitors will immediately be drawn to El Zoco due to the brightly coloured rugs hanging outside the shop.
Pampaneira is known for its rug weaving and the cheerful designs would certainly make a lasting souvenir.
After marvelling at the textiles, the interior of the shop is just as likely to draw you in, as wind chimes dangle from the roof and ceramic plates cover the walls, converting it into Andalucia’s answer to Aladdin’s cave.
A life-long lover of trinkets and knick-knacks, I couldn’t leave the shop without picking up a magnet and a couple of postcards.
Down the street, make sure to delve into Abuela Ili’s Chocolate Factory by following the rich scent of cocoa beans to its doorway.
Each visitor is given a sample bag of delicious chocolate, which will only tempt you to buy more.
The trick worked a charm on me and I purchased a pack of three bars of dark chocolate.
If that wasn’t sweet enough for you, there is also a sweet factory waiting to be explored on Calle Jose Antonio.
With my appetite warmed up, I decided it was time for lunch.
I picked Cafe Europa, a small local bar I remembered from childhood as having the best, most decadent hot chocolate I had ever tasted.
The owners were attentive and helpful, making me a bespoke, tasty sandwich to suit my vegan diet which so often leaves Spanish restaurants stumped.
After the meal, I made sure to wander upwards to explore the other streets and came upon more artisan shops, a jam factory, a ham museum, more stunning viewpoints and best of all- many friendly cats.
For a breath of fresh mountain air in a gorgeous setting just an hour from Granada and two from Malaga, Pampaneira is the perfect Autumn-Winter day trip.
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