Yzabelle Bostyn
BILBAO is the Basque Country’s biggest city and with much to explore, we have prepared a guide for the ultimate visit.
Culture filled cities, stunning coastlines and world-renowned cuisine, the Basque Country is a vibrant and varied region.
Its biggest city, Bilbao, makes for the perfect long weekend, with a great mix of museums, green spaces, beaches, historic neighbourhoods and strong cultural heritage.
On a recent visit to Bilbao, I spent three days in the area and was delighted each day by the diverse host of activities and landscapes.
Day one began with a wander to the Artxanda Funicular leading to panoramic views over the city from Artxanda Park.
Coming from Southern Spain, it was a treat to see so much green in the city and surrounding countryside.
Families, couples and school groups gathered to spot landmarks like the cathedral and Guggenheim, before looking further out to the coast.
The barriers were constructed of signs reading ‘Bilbao’, providing a classic photo opportunity over the valley.
After a short trip back down in the funicular, we headed to the unmissable Guggenheim museum on the banks of the Nervion River.
Approaching the museum from the Salbeko Zubia Bridge, the sheets of metal that elegantly make up the building shone in the late September sun.
I had seen the Guggenheim in pictures many times but seeing the structure in person was so impressive it alone made the trip to Bilbao worth it.
Often referred to as ‘one of the most important designs of the last 30 years’, the building was designed by Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry and opened in 1997 to much fanfare.
Now, it is a reference point for modern and contemporary art, with exhibitions by international artists from Jeff Koons to David Hockney.
Although pieces like Koon’s ‘Puppy’ or Louise Bourgeois’s ‘Maman’ spider can be appreciated from the outside, visitors have to pay €18 to enter the main museum.
To fully explore all of the exhibitions, set aside a few hours from Tuesday-Sunday, 10:00 am- 07:00 pm.
After refuelling at a nearby cafe such as vegan deli Suculenta, we recommend learning about the city’s unique history by going on a free walking tour.
Many companies offer the low cost tours, where guides expect a tip of at least €10 for their services.
We opted for Basque Free Tour’s Old Town tour, where we learnt about how the city has grown and changed throughout its history.
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The tour not only included facts but fun cultural tidbits and recommendations which helped us really get to know Basque culture even after the tour had finished.
Once the tour was over, we visited Bohemian Lane for a reward of vegan cake and tea in the cosy surroundings before retiring for the night.
On day two, we ventured outside of the city centre to explore the coastline and Urdaibai National Park.
Tired from travelling, we opted for a €70 organised tour but this trip could easily be done by hire car.
The first stop was San Juan de Gaztelugatze, a chapel perched on top of a rocky precipice looking out into the Bay of Biscay.
Just half an hour from central Bilbao, the chapel has become a popular day trip after appearing in Game of Thrones as Dragonstone.
The small island even has its own protected species of lizard, so perhaps Dragonstone isn’t too far fetched after all.
Not just for TV fans, San Juan is also a religious destination, as Saint James is believed to have visited.
Anyone who recreates his path by scaling the 241 steps will allegedly be cured of any leg ailment.
It is worth noting that since Game of Thrones, San Juan has become an incredibly busy destination and local authorities have had to restrict access.
You can get free tickets online, but make sure to do it well in advance, as locals told me it is sometimes booked up three months early.
After admiring the stunning views of the coastline and snapping some pictures, we went back to the minibus and onto our next destination, where we had a couple of hours for lunch.
Just six kilometres from San Juan, some visitors choose to walk along the coastline to Bermeo, enjoying the stunning sea views.
Known for its mermaid legends, quality seafood and eclectic port, Bermeo is a charming local town.
Most tours take visitors to the nearby town of Mundaka, famous for its world renowned surfing but I was happy to see Bermeo with its relaxed feel and colourful houses reminiscent of the Cinque Terre.
For seafood lovers, Bermeo is the perfect lunch stop, with unpretentious, traditional restaurants lining the port.
The final stop on our tour was the infamous Guernica, a small town struck by a deadly German-Italian bomb raid in 1937.
At least 2000 people died in the tragedy, which then dictator, Franco, is thought to have allowed so Axis powers could practice for the impending World War Two.
As news of the atrocity spread, Malagan artist Pablo Picasso took to the canvas, creating his iconic ‘Guernica’ painting for the Paris World Fair.
The town has never forgotten the attack and a huge mural displays Picasso’s impactful work for visitors to contemplate.
Nearby is the Biscaya Assembly House, home to the emblematic Oak Tree of Guernica.
A symbol of basque freedom, the millennial tree has witnessed various political and social changes in the region, always respecting the liberty of the basque people.
You can visit the inside of the Assembly House for free from 10:00 am with closing times varying between winter and summer.
Following a rousing speech on the importance of freedom from our guide, we piled into the minibus and headed back to Bilbao.
Our final day in Bilbao was spent in the coastal area of the city admiring the famous Vizcaya Bridge and charming Getxo neighbourhood.
After grabbing a coffee and a huge palmera from Bohemian Lane cafe, we hopped on the metro at Zazpikaleak Casco Viejo, riding 13 stops to Areeta.
Once there, it was a short drizzly walk to the bridge and we knew we were getting close because we noticed huge metal supports running between buildings.
The bright red transporter bridge dramatically links the towns of Portugalete and Las Arenas with a hanging cabin running over the Nervion River.
It is the world’s oldest transporter bridge and was built in 1893 by one of Gustave Eiffel’s disciples, Alberto Palacio.
If you fancy trying it out, a trip costs just €0.55, or you can visit the official museum and scale the bridge for just €10.
Next, we jumped back on the metro to ride to Algorta, a charming port town with ramshackle fishing cottages leading down to the sea.
After wandering around for half an hour admiring the fairytale buildings, we wandered back up the hill and headed back to Bilbao.
The city’s metro is incredibly fast, punctual and cheap, at just €1.70 per journey. Likewise, the buses were very frequent and cheap with the journey from the airport to the centre taking less than half an hour.
Over the morning, we had built up a good appetite so we decided to indulge in some pinchos in a local bar, Pub K2.
Bellies, minds and hearts full from our stay in this vibrant, culturally rich and beautiful city, we headed to the airport, already thinking about our next trip to the Basque Country.
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