Summer holidays are looming which means one thing: finally it’s time to open the gates of the municipal swimming pools and let us in.
Municipal pool is a term sure to upset a lot of people born outside Spain. Chlorine, tricky lockers, echoes of pale yellow tiles, slippery floors and mild concussion after a collision with a large back crawler . . . that sort of thing.
But here it’s different. Even the smallest and most remote villages in the south will often have outdoor municipal pools that are impressively large, immaculately clean, and well-landscaped. And there’s no shortage of them in the north either.
If they have a fault it’s that most of these pools are only open during school summer holidays. It doesn’t matter if temperatures have been in the 30s for weeks, or that people clutching lilos and towels arrive each day to look longingly at the glittering water and plead with those in charge through the railings, rules are rules.
But now, the children are about to be released, so if you tire of the ocean waves, the beach clubs, and the designer hotel pools with their soft musack and mojitos, you can head into the hills and seek them out.
Summer opening dates vary, so check the websites for details. Prices are between €2-€5 per day for adults.
El Gastor, Cadiz
The large and recently remodelled public pool is set off a little winding road above the white village, occupies a spectacular spot with aerial views and is surrounded by trees and grass. It also has the major added benefit of being alongside the mighty fine yet affordable restaurant Gastrobar La Piscina. Work off that couple of lengths with a five-course lunch.
Zahara de la Sierra, Cadiz
Backed by mountains and surrounded by grass, if you get there early, all you’ll hear is cicadas and birdsong (and maybe someone saying ‘ay, dios’ because the mountain water is, let’s say, refreshing. There are ice creams on sale by the ticket kiosk, and a bar with terrace for cold drinks and emergency snacks.
Villaluenga del Rosario, Cadiz
There’s hot competition in the ‘municipal pool with most dramatic setting’ category, but this one is a contender. Most visitors only go to Villaluenga to hike through the strangely rocky mountains or buy award-winning cheese, or because they got lost on the way to Ubrique, but here’s another attraction.
Jubrique, Malaga
There’s a pool with a view at this tiny village that clings to a mountain not far from the bustle of Ronda. Full service, too, with the usual shaded grassy lounging spots, changing rooms, and bar-restaurant.
Jimera de Libar, Malaga
Whether you sit with a cold beer at a table with umbrella overlooking the blue water, or jump in, this pool near Ronda is the ideal setting for recovering after some summer hiking in the Serrania de Ronda. Views of high rocky mountains and shimmering heat.
Iznajar, Cordoba
With grassy surrounds, thatched shade umbrellas, and views of mountains, the Iznajar public pool is handily located in Paraje de Valdearenas, next to a campsite and hotel with Playa de Valdearenas and the lake nearby.
Cabra, Cordoba
The four pools are part of the sports park Heliodoro Martín set inside a beautiful natural area, the Fuente del Rio, and provide something for everyone from paddling toddlers to serious lane speeders. If you are there for fitness not basking, you can take advantage of squash courts, a hydrotherapy suite, and a physiotherapy room. Obviously, there’s a cafe too.
Castril, Granada
A much-loved local secret, the municipal pool is accessed via the river walk from the centre of the village, and with bar, really good restaurant, plenty of shade, and a natural setting that includes a little waterfall, it’s an ideal place to spend the whole of a hot day. Castril on the edge of the Cazorla natural park is worth visiting itself, with its steep cobbled streets and Arab-influences architecture.
Alcala de Guadaira, Sevilla
Lots of organised activities in and out of the pool at this family-friendly spot just south of the big city. (If you want to be beside the water or paddling rather than in it, seek out the nearby river trail. Running along a deep wooded valley, it takes in the old flour mills owned by the bakeries that supplied Sevilla with bread.)
Piscina de Amurjo, Jaén
At 85 metres long and 30 metres wide, this is said to be the biggest pool in Andalucia, and among the biggest in Europe. It is definitely one of the loveliest, enclosed by pine forests in the rugged country between Orcera and Segura de Sierra. This whole region is a natural playground with lots of cabins and campsites and adventuresome activities on offer, and accordingly, the pool has plenty of amenities, as well as accommodation options alongside.