Eloise Horsfield
By Jon Clarke
FOR decades it was at the mercy of the kitsch imagination of a confused costa Queen.
Cluttered and full of nonsensical memorabilia, Alberts was a place to be entertained, but generally best avoided.
How things have changed.
Following a total makeover, the stalwart restaurant in Cabopino port has entered the light again.
Gone are the dark, dingy corners, the garish prints and the stuffy old menu.
Today, Alberts is a paragon of good taste – a light, airy place entirely capitalising on its fine location overlooking the yachts at one of the Costa del Sol’s best-kept secrets.
But maritime it ain’t. There are no blue and white washes and boating memorabilia. Instead its designers – the team behind Polo House, Jacks and Mumtaz – have gone for a bold run of pretty
hydraulic floor tiles and interesting bookbinding wallpaper.
There is even a penny farthing bike installed at the back.
Food-wise the order of the day is ‘fresh’, thanks in large to the eagle eye of its executive chef Danny, who buys for the Metro Group, having spent 11 years under the tutelage of Marco Pierre White in the UK.
Under him is Jason Coupe, from Mansfield, who trained at London’s Michelin-star joint 1 Lombard Street and has the odd trick up his sleeve.
The secret ingredients in the foam on top of the fish pie for one. I can also strongly recommend the deep fried goat’s cheese with rocket, pine nuts and red onion marmalade.
The steak pie came with fresh new potatoes and plenty of veg – not overcooked – and had a perfectly light puff pastry topping.
Nautical, but nice.
Alberts Bar & Grill, Puerto Cabopino Tel: 952 836 886 www.metrogrupo.com
